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A-Bodies: Valiant Varieties (Home)


 

Switching to power brakes or a larger master cylinder

by Robert Bowen

Neither Mr. Bowen nor valiant.org/Allpar, LLC take any responsibility for the outcome of this process. Work and drive at your own risk.

It is no big deal. If you have worked on brakes before and can take your time and be contentious, here are the steps and parts required:

Get a '67 up all drum M/C [master cylinder], and use your pushrod with it. To convert to power, get the booster and M/C from a car in the junkyard. Make sure the booster has the same bolt pattern as your old master cylinder and that the pushrod for the booster is about the same length as your old pushrod. Look for another A-body around the same year as yours is. Power brakes were an option on some years, but I don't know when they started.

You will have to flare your own lines because the tube nuts needed for the master cylinder are an odd size and you will have trouble getting pre-flared lines with those nuts on them (be sure and double-flare)

Both lines are about 20" long, and need to follow the contour of the original single line. Both will be 3/16 instead of 1/4

The tube nut on the far end of the front brake line needs to have 7/16 inch threads but a 3/16 bore to match up with the old 4-way brake union that will be used only for the front brakes in this conversion.

Get a 3/16 flare plug(3/8 threads), and disconnect the rear brake line from the 4-way union down near the left front subframe stub. Put the plug where the rear line went to, and buy a union to join the male end of the old rear brake line to the male end of the new line that you made to go from the front fitting(for the rear brakes) on the new master cylinder. You will have to bend the old rear brake line up to match the angle of the new line.

Join those two, and disconnect the old 1/4 inch line from the top of the main union that the rear and front lines ran to. Attach the new line that you made for the rear port on the new master cylinder to the place where the old 1/4 line went to. This is the line that needs to have the 7/16 thread, 3/16 bore tube nut on the end.

Bleed and check everything for leaks and hit the road!

Here are the parts you need:

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